Rubies in Jewelry Throughout History

Rubies have been a significant gemstone in jewelry and in history for thousands of years. Yes, we’re talking about July’s deep red birthstone once again. The history of this stone is so complex and unique that we thought it needed its own separate article! These precious gemstones, a variety of the mineral corundum, are renowned not only for their beauty but also for their rich historical and cultural significance. From ancient civilizations to modern times, rubies have been treasured as symbols of wealth, power, and passion. Let’s dive into where this significance started!

Ancient Origins and Early Use

The history of rubies, and more specifically, rubies in jewelry can be traced back over 2,000 years. As stated in our previous blog, early records suggest that rubies were first discovered in the Mogok region of Burma (modern-day Myanmar). This region of the world remains one of the most significant sources of high-quality rubies still to this day. The ancient Burmese believed that rubies contained a fire within them, capable of providing protection and warding off evil. This is still what many associate with rubies.

In India, rubies were highly regarded in the hearts of royalty and nobility as a very precious and valuable stone. Historians have found that many Ancient Sanskrit texts refer to rubies as "ratnaraj," meaning "king of precious stones." These gems were highly valued by Indian royalty and were often featured in crowns, ceremonial armor, and regal jewelry. The allure of rubies was so prominent in society that they were even offered as tributes to gods and used in religious ceremonies.

Rubies in the Middle Ages and Renaissance

Princess Margaret of Austria Wearing Rubies in The Middle Ages

During the Middle Ages (500 - 1500 CE), rubies continued to be prized in Europe, where they were believed to bring good fortune and protect against plagues, which was very important during the time of The Black Death that ravaged Europe. European royalty and the elite adorned themselves with ruby-studded crowns, necklaces, and rings, viewing the stone as a symbol of power, wealth, and protection.

In the Renaissance period (1400 - 1700 CE), rubies became even more coveted as explorers and traders brought them back from the East. The wealthy elite of Europe, including monarchs like Elizabeth I of England, eagerly incorporated rubies into their lavish jewelry collections. The intense red of the ruby symbolized highly held qualities such as passion and power, making it a favorite among the aristocracy.

The Mogok Valley and the Rise of Burmese Rubies

Let’s turn the clock back a tad to understand the full picture. How did rubies make their way from Burma into modern societies? To understand that, we must return to Burma. The Mogok Valley in Myanmar has been a legendary source of rubies for centuries. Discovered long before the modern era, the rubies from this region are renowned for their exceptional quality and deep, vibrant color. The term "Burmese ruby" has become synonymous with some of the finest rubies in the world.

In the 19th century, as the British Empire worked to expand its influence, it took control of Burma, including the valuable ruby mines of Mogok. Inevitably, this period saw an increased influx of Burmese rubies into Europe, further cementing their status as highly prized gemstones in modern times. The distinct "pigeon blood" red hue of Burmese rubies, with its vivid saturation and fluorescence, captivated jewelers and collectors alike in the Western World.

Princess Catherine Wearing Ruby Earrings and a Necklace

Rubies in the Modern Era

The 20th century brought about significant changes in countless industries, including advancements in mining, cutting, and marketing throughout the jewelry industry. Rubies continued to be a focal point of fine jewelry, with notable houses like Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Tiffany & Co. creating stunning pieces featuring these radiant gems.

One of the most famous rubies of the 20th century is the "Hope Ruby," a 32.08-carat Burmese ruby set in a ring designed by Cartier. This remarkable gem fetched a record-breaking price at auction ($6.7 million!), highlighting the never-ending allure and value of high-quality rubies.

The Significance of Rubies Today

Rubies, like many gemstones, have long been associated with various symbolic meanings across different cultures. In many Asian cultures, rubies are believed to bring good luck, health, and prosperity. In China, they were often buried beneath the foundations of buildings to ensure good fortune. In Hinduism, rubies are considered the "gem of the sun," symbolizing passion, protection, and prosperity.

In Western cultures, rubies have traditionally been associated with love and passion. They are often given as gifts to symbolize deep affection and commitment. The fiery red color of the ruby is seen as a representation of the heart's intense emotions, making it a popular choice for engagement rings and romantic jewelry.

Famous Rubies and Iconic Jewelry

Queen Elizabeth II’s Famous Ruby Tiara

Throughout history, several notable rubies have captured the imagination of gem and jewelry enthusiasts. One such gem is the "Sunrise Ruby," a 25.59-carat Burmese ruby that holds the record for the most expensive ruby ever sold at auction. Its exceptional color and clarity make it a true masterpiece of nature’s artistic capabilities.

The "Mogok Ruby" is another legendary gem known for its top-tier quality and rich history. Weighing in at 18.04 carats, this one-of-a-kind ruby has been passed down through generations of royalty and collectors, solidifying its status as one of the most important rubies in existence! Now, that’s not an easy title to earn.

Rubies in Contemporary Jewelry Design

In contemporary jewelry design, rubies continue to be incorporated into new creations due to their beauty and versatility. This stone is also one of the best ways to bring in a high-quality and natural red color to a jewelry design. Modern jewelers now experiment with innovative settings and combinations, incorporating rubies into everything from classic solitaire rings to elaborate statement pieces.

One notable trend in recent years is the use of rubies in combination with other gemstones, such as diamonds, emeralds, and sapphires. This approach allows designers to create stunning pieces that highlight the ruby's vibrant color while adding contrast by bringing in complementary stones.

The Ethical and Sustainable Sourcing of Rubies

As with many gemstones and industries in general the ethics and sustainability of production has become an extremely important consideration for customers worldwide. Unfortunately, the mining and trade of rubies, along with many other types of mining, have historically been associated with various ethical concerns.

In response to these issues, there has been a growing movement toward responsible sourcing and transparency across the entire gemstone industry. Organizations such as the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) and initiatives like the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme aim to ensure that rubies and other gemstones are sourced in a manner that is environmentally sustainable and socially responsible.

Rubies Through Time

The history of rubies in jewelry is a testament to their significance across cultures and classes. From the ancient civilizations of Burma and India to the royals of Europe and the modern-day jewelry ateliers, rubies have often been at the forefront of jewelry and style. We can’t get enough of this deep and beautiful red, and we know we are not alone in this. To all of our July birthdays, we hope you are reveling in the month of your birthstone! Dust your rubies off and wear them loud and proud.

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